This could be prettier...

I am reading and trying several things to make this page more attractive and convey what I want. And I am struggling with it. The books I have don't quite give me what I'm looking for. Of course, I am just getting started in them so it may take a bit more time.

I am trying to 'get' how to place the images on the page. Sometimes I get what I want - the picture of scouring tools with text beside it is an example. Sometimes it's way off like the most recent post with the minigama video.

I just must spend more time working with the text books and trying things out here.

I also need to keep in mind what these pages are for; for me to track what I am working on and how that fits into my day. These pages replace my lost journal and are primarily for me, not the world wide web.

Minigama firing

We have fired the second version of a minigama on a couple of occasions. The first firing went to about 2000 degrees. We are using a shop-vac to blow air into the kiln as opposed to any of the other suggestions.

The second firing went for three hours, used 20 lbs of charcoal and reached about 1950 deg. The cone kind of curled up. Not enough time, I imagine.


The 'ware' pictured is a three inch cup and a two inch extruded tube. They both got some glaze and a lot of 'crustys' but the finish is interesting.

Scouring Tool for Handbuilding

I made nifty scouring tools for the minigama workshop.

1. Open a package of embroidery needles but leave the needles in the plastic tray they come in.
2. Squeeze quick setting epoxy over the eye and top 1/3 for the package. Make sure to keep the pointy ends even.
3. After the epoxy is set, cut the package in half - there were 16 needles in the packages I used so I cut them into 8 and 8 - and trim off the edges of the plastic packaging.
4. Mold about 1/4 inch of "Quick Copper" or other 'fake metal' and form over the top of the set of needles. Think about how you will use the tool and make the 'handle' fat enough to give a good grip. I also pressed some texture in to the handle to make it a bit rough.

Thanks to John Neely for the instructions.

The Box Project/First Steps

The configuration for the three boxes was finalized today, 6 x 6 x 5 inches deep. I've drawn the top to size and worked out the angle - 60 deg. Now I am trying to decide how to approach the encaustic surfaces - inside/outside. Is it possible to put encaustic paint on both surfaces? Should both surfaces be worked on at the same time or one side finished then the other worked on?

But I am getting ahead of myself. I have yet to put wax on anything! Soon... I have all of the materials I need to begin and lots of ideas for the first steps. I plan to test four primers on MDF and four surface treatments on paper clay.

• white glue and water on MDF
• white gesso on MDF
• bleached beeswax on MDF
• medium on MDF
• burnished surface on paper clay
• terra sig. on paper clay
• texture and stain on paper clay
• texture and underglaze on paper clay
  

Then using medium and pigmented wax build up surfaces that are smooth on one set and textured on another set. I figure that once the first couple of coats of medium are on all surfaces will act the same.


I am waiting until I have finished the Minigama building workshop this weekend. Three people in the class for two days with a firing on Saturday night. Once I am past that I will begin to address encaustic painting.

Boxing up my life

At the studio, I built a maquette for the Box Project out of foam core board and learned quite a bit about how I what to proceed. I thought that I wanted the faces of the three boxes to be closed so that there would be more area for images. And, I thought I wanted both sides of the outside boxes to be tapered in at different angles.

After building the maquettes, I realize that having the two side boxes open gives me the effect that I want of looking back into the past and looking forward into the future and that the far left and right sides are very visible and provide lots of space for images. Having the inner sides parallel to the center box works well and makes the construction much simpler.

Next step is to make them full size. The question is do I just jump into making them out of clay or do I make a full size mock-up.

I'm still working on organizing the encaustic supplies. Since I don't know if I will be working at home or at the studio I want all that 'stuff' to be portable. 'Sides which, I just love to buy tools and boxes and materials for a new project.

Gardening happened this morning and this evening. Still mixing up the compost and getting plants into the ground. I know, I know, it is mid-July but the plants were free so no loss if they aren't the most productive tomatoes on the planet.

So this is blogging.

I am embarking on a couple of new experiences and can't find my journal...sounds like a perfect time to give blogging a try. Plus, I have spent untold hours reading other's blogs, so here goes.

I am gathering the materials to begin encaustic painting. I have a few projects thought out and have begun working out the details. I am also working through a new (to me) book, Ceramic Design Course, by Anthony Quinn. (I am a ceramic artist in my other life.)

The other experience is building and firing a minigama - a small kiln - fired with charcoal. Quite a different experience than my 'normal' clay work. The initial process of building the kiln is a bit drawn out since the kiln needs to dry out slooowly before bisque firing. Final firing of the ONE piece that fits in the kiln happens quickly, in just over four hours.